Monday, May 31, 2010

In Retrospective

                   Talking of a kallu shaapu reminds me of our childhood( long back) when we used to have a couple of palms( Not sure what palms they were) on our land which were allowed to be tapped for Toddy. Talk was that if we requested the 'Cheetukaran' when he came down the palm for some toddy, he would willingly oblige. Though I never have been able to be near the palm at the right time, I have had the good fortune to taste the sweet toddy in its fresh form and it was heavenly. Dad would get bottles of fresh Toddy from Cheratala and keep in the Fridge, though it would get sour and taste more like vinegar after more than 24hrs.

Now there are no palm trees on our land and no 'Chetukaran's' either. The ubiquitous Kallu Shappu, though is still found along the length and breadth of Kerala. My earliest memories are of thatched roof rooms with creaky benches and mud flooring and full of laymen like us enjoying a drink after a day of hard labor at the fields. The first memories of the insides of a Kallu shaapu were experienced when as children we tagged along with our Chetans to buy kallu for Kallu-appam.

Now we have designer Toddy shops with separated cabins, fans and Menu cards, though those old thatched roof variety still exists and i personally find them so much more depicting the culture of Kerala. These kallu shappu's have been an integral part of Kerala culture and tradition. Kallu shappu is to Kerala what the Pub and Tavern is to the Western world. Sadly this culture is dying. Earlier, Toddy tappers took up the profession of their ancestors, but now with limited prospects for them and also the ingress of IMFL into the market, Toddy has been sidelined to being a ceremonial drink with very few patrons left and looked down upon as the drink of the lowly, unsophisticated peasant's.

According to BBC, Kerala is India's tippler country with the highest per capita liquor consumption in the nation. let me paste what BBC has to say in the report-
" A state-run monopoly sells alcohol. The curiously-named Kerala State Beverages Corporation (KSBC) runs 337 liquor shops, open seven days a week. Each shop caters on average to an astonishing 80,000 clients. This fiscal year the KSBC is expected to sell $1bn (£0.6bn) of alcohol in a state of 30 million people, up from $12m when it took over the retail business in 1984. Similarly, revenues from alcohol to the state's exchequer have registered a whopping 100% rise over the past four years." ( This is probably a two year old statistics but according to this template now the rise should be 500%)

 But mainly it is the IMFL that rules. It is a status thing to drink foreign liquor( The 'Gora Sahab' or 'Sahipu' syndrome) in Kerala and drinking Toddy is looked down upon. Earlier Toddy was used in the preparation of traditional food like kallu-appam but now that also has started to be made without kallu.Toddy vinegar is hard to get too( ask my mother).

The govt should promote the traditional liquor just like it is promoting IMFL by 'Kerala State Beverages Corporation' ( I heard that consumers can even send text messages to their helpline number to record grievances)

I personally find sweet Toddy immensely refreshing. Moreover, the Toddy shop also provides a mouthwatering array of dishes to go with the Kallu. Beef, Pork, Chicken, Duck, Frog, Shell fish, Spotted pearl fish, crab, Prawns, Shrimp….. the list is endless and eaten with Kappa( tapioca) tastes heavenly. I can have this food everyday for all my life. It's sad that this tradition of Toddy shops are gradually but surely loosing the battle to the IMFL Bars mushrooming all around the countryside. In Kerala I any day prefer a Toddy Shop to a Bar. Due to the unavailability of Toddy the shops now have taken to adulterating the same with such unbelievable things as Crocin tablets, Toothpaste, Pesticides and acid( used in Arrack). This modified version of Kallu is no fun and can land you in hospital with serious damage to your internal system. Finding good Toddy is difficult nowadays.

A well-known actor NL Balakrishnan, a veteran of more than 200 films, who launched a lobby group called Forum for Better Spirit in 1983 which  asks the government to provide liquor through the state-subsided public distribution system, boost toddy production, slash prices for elderly drinkers and supply free alcohol to drinkers over 90.This is what Mr Balakrishnan,67,says his father "initiated" him into drinking when he was four. "We used to go to the cinema together. After the show was over, he would take me to a toddy shop where he would drink. He would give me a few spoons of toddy too. It was an amazing experience," he says. He says when his father died at the ripe age of 98 after a "lifetime of heavy drinking", he wet his lips with liquor and not holy water, as is the Hindu custom.Mr Balakrishnan says that on his average day out with his drinking buddies he downs 22 shots of his favourite brandy - and "never has any problems".
"If you have willpower and have enough food to go with your drink, booze will never harm you," he says cheerily.

Well...i do not agree fully with him,but guess i am quoting this just to say that there are other like minded people like us around too. All in all whenever we talk about the Toddy shop, it brings myraid thoughts of local tipplers, mundu's tied high up on their chests, brawls and naadan paatu( Country songs). One thing is that anything in excess is bad and so is it with Kallu. Moderation is the name of the game. Amen !!

"Eda kallu Marinnu aanu" - The best kallu.

kallolam nalla ooru saadhanam vayere illadi Mariamme.. !!
                                                             - Leo Sebastian.

Thus spake the gifted sage Leo and he wasn't pilling coz this is something that came from deepest recesses, of a heart deprived of good Kallu. A voice which reverberates into eons to come.

Well, this journey started when myself gave the task of finding out some good toddy to Davi. He came up with this place and guaranteed pure 'sadhanam'. So we decided to take Robby sir's bike and drive down to Kuttanadu for tasting this particular nectar, but sudden rains played spoilsport and to add to our woes, Leo sir came up with a plan to visit a local kallushaapu and marketed it vehemently. well, like another Guru said " when you want something desperately, the whole universe conspires to get it for you" and so it was with us. we finally decided to take the Versa and also Sir Leo with us. The Climate was fantastic with light showers continuing since morning and greenery all around.

This particular shappu is situated at a place called 'Vaaladi' इन Kuttanadu. Now that's what i call an apt name( there should be a place called Pambuaayi too ) Its on the way to Changnassery from ettumanoor. After crossing Kottayam ( and manipuzha Shappu- good food) before you reach Changnassery, there is a right turn near a temple. take that road and the Shappu is about 6 kms from there on the road side. The location is ideal with Vayalugal on both sides and no other buildings around. The shappu was painted a kadumvettu pinkish purplish orangish yellowish colour.

That's the kallu shappu

We reached the place at 5Pm sharp and that's when Davi said that pure kallu( Andhi kallu) will come only at 1930hrs!! What?? went Sir Leo..What the mayiru should we do till then? " Innu kallu kitti illengil ninne njaan... aaa". He, it seemed was already getting in the mood. Anyway we went ahead till the Boat Jetty and looked at coconut palms being tapped( just to make sure that we will get the thing) and then came back and stopped in front of another kallu shappu nearby besides a small stream and decided to quench our thirst with some kallu.

We had kallu ,Kappa and pork at this place. The kallu was Vinegar but the food was shahikyable. Not recommended.

                                                           Not recommended

Anyway we some how came out and with still time to go for the andhi kallu and started walking as slowly as possible towards the kadumvettu shaapu. Sir Leo was already getting into the groove. " Eda innu madhura kallu kitti illengil nee pok aa.. keto da"


taanaaro tanna ro...                                                                                                                                                              

Me and davis decided to walk in the rain towards our destination more to kill time than with a desire to get drenched. However we reached the said shappu and asked for aandi kallu which they said would come at 1930hrs. In the meantime we decided to try some Frog meat which was promptly presented to us. It turned out to be quite tasty. I noticed that the serving waiter was also 'kindi' and just a few gulps short of becoming pambu...

Finally when the aandhi kallu came we took three litres of it to drink and two and a half litres to take home.
Believe me the kallu was just AMAZING. never have i drank this kinds.
" Eda njaan ende jeevithathil aadiyam aanu iterayam nalla kallu kudichdu" was uttered ,stamped and duly registered. We later on had kappa and pork also. The happiness shone on our face!!



Overall the kallushappu was fantastic with water on both sides and an amazing breeze beating on your face to wake you up. according to Davi, it is even more beautiful when the 'Nellu' is green and again when it is ripe and golden yellow...
i give full marks to the location, and kallu. they were fantastic( what more do we want) The food was so-so and the cost was reasonable. The chetan there said that Naadan paatu was not allowed on Sundays but on week days we were welcome to come. when we gave him a tenner" aayo, chetta.. eppum venavingulaum vaa naadan pattu njaan sheeri aaki taram" so that's the secret - a tenner !!
We came back with a satisfied grin on all our faces..

                                           Aanandha labdhikyu injee enndu venum...

 - Guide Davi

Saturday, April 17, 2010

Our Story, Our Quest.

We are a couple of really environment conscious guys and would like nothing better than to save all endangered species and arts. And while thus on a mission to save the world, we came across the painful fact that the Palm tree is almost on the verge of extinction from our native place.

Now, this palm tree is used for tapping Toddy and more importantly palm leaves are the most favored food of Elephants. And God knows, we love Elephants. When we were researching the sudden dwindling of the elephant population( Only 2,422 left) last year, the prime reason we found was that the elephants were tired of the man made elephant food and were dying unhappy and hungry. Our hearts went out to them. We found that they were missing palm leaves very much, and the Mahouts that we spoke to lamented the unavailability of the leaves as there were not many palm trees left. We took it upon ourselves to try and do something about this and in our quest did many awareness programs with the native people but the difficulty we faced was that none of the people could empathize or relate to the plight of the elephants. We realized that we had to take a different approach to the problem. Luckily, we also found that palm wine( Toddy) is tapped from the same tree. We put two and three together and came up with five.

We now gave THIS reason to save the Palm tree and Voila! we started getting positive responses, mainly from the 'disgusted with life' men folk. Rest of the unemployed people standing in queue for recruitment into the Naxal and various Terrorist organizations fell into line when we told them about the employment opportunities as Toddy Tappers( and that the ladies adore them)that it would generate when the Palms grow up.( Till then they have been attached to a local school which provides free meals) So, in the bargain we look forward to saving the palm wine( Kallu) also from extinction, which last heard was being made by adding synthetic flavoring and colors to sewage water.( now we know where the funny taste came from)So let it be known that we are on a noble quest and the promotion of the Toddy shops is all connected to the saving of the Palm tree and the elephant and finally the Environment. We are also generating employment by taking grave risks( The naxals and other Terrorist organizations are after our blood. But we are unfazed.).

We therefore exhort all like minded and unlike minded people to contribute to the saving of the environment with us( preferably in cash)…. For those who fear an headache and a hangover we are in talks with a local Toddy wholesale supplier to bring out " Vicks action 500" or " Dispirin" version of Toddy apart from the popular " Crocin" version in vogue now.Well, that’s the story of how we ended up at this blog or at least the story we would like everyone to believe.

Post Script : We do not take any responsibility for the above or any other bullshit that we write turning out to be true.
Post Post Script : Mind it.

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Palm Wine !

Palm wine also called Palm Toddy or simply Toddy is an alcoholic beverage created from the sap of various species of palm tree such as the Palmyra, and coconut palms. This drink is common in various parts of Asia and Africa, and goes by various names, such as "emu" and "oguro" in Nigeria, nsafufuo in Ghana, kallu in South India, tuak in North Sumatra, Indonesia, goribon (Rungus) in Sabah, Borneo, and tuba in the Philippines, Borneo and Mexico. Toddy is also consumed in Sri Lanka and Myanmar. Production of palm wine has contributed to the endangered status of some palm species such as the Chilean wine palm, Jubaea chilensis.

The sap is extracted and collected by a tapper. Typically the sap is collected from the cut flower of the palm tree. A container is fastened to the flower stump to collect the sap. The white liquid that initially collects tends to be very sweet and non-alcoholic before it is fermented. An alternate method is the felling of the entire tree. Where this is practiced, a fire is sometimes lit at the cut end to facilitate the collection of sap. Palm wine tapping is mentioned in the novel Things Fall Apart, by the Nigerian writer Chinua Achebe and is central to the plot of the groundbreaking novel The Palm Wine Drinkard by Nigerian author Amos Tutuola.

In parts of India, the unfermented sap is called "Neera" ("Padaneer" in Tamil Nadu) and is refrigerated, stored and distributed by semi-government agencies. A little lime is added to the sap to prevent it from fermenting. Neera is said to contain many nutrients including potash. Palm toddy also forms the base for a drink popular in Goa, known as Goan Fenny. Palm sap begins fermenting immediately after collection, due to natural yeasts in the air (often spurred by residual yeast left in the collecting container). Within two hours, fermentation yields an aromatic wine of up to 4% alcohol content, mildly intoxicating and sweet. The wine may be allowed to ferment longer, up to a day, to yield a stronger, more sour and acidic taste, which some people prefer. Longer fermentation produces vinegar instead of stronger wine. Tamil Sangam literature contains many references to Toddy (Kallu) and Tirukkuṛaḷ contains a chapter on "Abhorrence of Toddy".